Art fever

Text: Igor Shevkun

DESIGNERS OF FASHION HOUSES ARE ACTIVELY IMPLEMENTING THEIR FANTASIES IN COLLECTIONS, QUOTING THE WORKS OF FAMOUS ARTISTS. SIMILAR GAMES ARE THE OPPORTUNITY TO EARN MORE MONEY, PAY ATTENTION ON DISPLAY, AND THE MAIN THING IS TO BRING INTELLECTUAL NOTE TO HIGH FASHION.

Renaissance and modernity

Inspired by the fashion history of the 40s, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana used the affordable spring materials — raffia palm fiber, cotton, unusual wine cork material and organza — to create the Spring-Summer 2016 collection. The inspiration for them was the art of the Renaissance, where each outfit seemed to come off a postcard from an Italian souvenir shop. Fans of Dolce & Gabbana will happily find a print on a bright orange skirt with the Leaning Tower of Pisa and a marble statue of David, which Michelangelo Buonarroti presented to the audience at the Signori Square in Florence in the fall of 1504. For the Dolce & Gabbana show, stylists combined a trendy skirt with a striped top with the inscription "Italia is Love" and a silk turban that fit perfectly into the spring wardrobe. By the way, designers have repeatedly called contemporary and classical art among their main sources of inspiration - even their office on 24 Piave Street is decorated with a large-scale collection of contemporary art. Therefore, a couple are always waiting for Christie's at Rockefeller Center, where they willingly buy Mark

Clones of clans

The work of abstract expressionism leader Jackson Pollock and color field painting representative Ellsworth Kelly pushed the American-born designer of French origin Monique Lulie to create the spring-summer 2016 collection. “Their art is dynamic, they use bold colors and give a feeling of freedom,” Monique says. “In the collection, I tried to combine their vibrant colors with sculptural forms, decorating the outfits with beads.” Among the star fans of the Monique Lhuillier brand are Emma Stone, Blake Lively, Reese Witherspoon and Taylor Swift. Text: Igor Shevkun rka Chagall and Joan Miró.

Art preparation

Pop art and art business sharks - Andy Warhol and Roy Lichtenstein - unexpectedly invaded the territory of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia at the spring-summer 2016 season show by Dasha Gauser, one of the best-selling Russian designers (Dasha Gauser cocktail dresses Leysan Utyasheva, Svetlana Khodchenkova, Vera Brezhneva and Valeria acquired). The designer does not hide that she was inspired by pop art this season, creating such cool coveralls, bomber jackets, sleeveless tailcoats and T-shirts, beaten by comic book phrases that it’s time to collect them. No one else has them.

Soldier jane

It seems to us that any passion for designers in contemporary art is born out of curiosity: "What will happen next?" The New York-based Tome fashion brand, when creating the spring-summer collection in 2016, adopted the work of the Australian artist Fiona Hall, who criticizes the cult of consumerism (consumerism) in her installation “Give the dog a bone”, stuffed with household items, carved out of soap, in the center of which she placed a large photograph of her father in a blanket woven from Coca-Cola cans. Another popular work by the Hall is the witty exhibition "Leaf Litter", where images of leaves on banknotes from their countries of origin touch upon important environmental issues, the close relationship between the natural world and commerce. And in Funeral of the Choir, Fiona talks about the harm that humanity does to the environment (objects - bird bodies made from plastic bottles of cleaning and detergents, with rubber beaks that remind of the problems of extinct or endangered species of birds in New Zealand - kiwi , moa and kakapo).

Hand landing

The English brand Erdem and his godfather - designer Erdem Moralioglu since 2005 have been interesting not only for stylish things, but also for the prestigious British Fashion Council's Fashion Forward Award. At Fashion Week in London, a dress from the Spring-Summer 2016 collection made a splash, as if descended from the painting by the American artist Mary Cassat, "Fitting", which is located in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. "Try-in" shows a scene of everyday life in Paris of the 19th century, telling a story about the life of that era, gender roles and class differences - a dark-haired seamstress, crouching on the floor with her back to the viewer, hemming the bottom of her young client's skirt; her face and hands are hidden, she is virtually anonymous.

Find for the collector

The beginning of spring is also wonderful in that you can finally set off in search of a new blouse or bag. In the spring-summer collection of 2016 creatiGucci's Chief Executive Officer Alessandro Michele has relied on 70s-style glasses, sophisticated berets, Chinese-style skirts, a cherry-colored trench coat and a green mink training suit. The collection reads direct quotes from the Mexican artist Frida Kahlo and her self-portraits, which revolutionized the art of the 20th century. “I write myself because I spend a lot of time alone and because I am the topic that I know best,” said artist Frida Kahlo, who reflected on the canvas the events of her life.

Ocean of Respect

At New York Fashion Week at the Spring-Summer 2016 show, Marc Jacobs again honored the memory of pop art king Andy Warhol, citing his most famous series of paintings "Liz" with a repeating image of actress Elizabeth Taylor. The designer also beat the American flag in the new collection (a reference to the classic American painting by Jasper Johns) to Las Vegas crystals, Rage Against The Machine music and made a lot of noise by releasing Gossip's soloist Beth Ditto in white dress with an open neckline. Jacobs is one of the few contemporary designers who creates “wearable” clothes, while being a passionate fan of contemporary art.

Queen of Chromatic Abstraction

In the spring-summer collection of 2016, Pamella Roland, which was shown at the Whitney Museum of American Art, especially notes the influence of the work of the American artist Frank Stella. Peppy quotes from the Stella's “Black Mambo from Black Series II” series of “black paintings” (1967) plus actual dresses-dresses from Pamella Roland made of silk and organza - these are the components from which must have items are born. “It’s impossible to have a fashion show in a museum without creating art objects,” Pamela Roland shared behind the scenes of her collection.

The story of Salome

Rodarte American Fashion House was founded in 2005 in Los Angeles by the sisters Kate and Laura Mullivi. During this time, they managed to make costumes for the Oscar-winning drama “Black Swan” by Darren Aronofsky, and in their stunning beauty dresses from silk and muslin sparkle on the red carpet of the superstar - Natalie Portman, Kirsten Dunst and Julianne Moore. In the spring-summer collection of 2016, girls were invited to look at this world with new eyes, inspired by the painting "Salome in the garden" (or "Salome bearing the head of St. John the Baptist") by French artist Gustave Moreau (the painting is in the collection of the Mahmoud Halil Museum in Cairo) . The army of fans of Gustave Moreau and fashionistas rejoice!

White period

At Paris Fashion Week, the Dutch duo Viktor & Rolf presented the spring-summer 2016 white couture collection, The Sculpture Presentation at the Palais de Tokyo, whose unofficial anthem was Radiohead’s song “Creep”, and inspired by Pablo Picasso and Van Gogh’s masterpieces. Pay attention to the dresses of Viktor & Rolf, on which disproportionate faces of people, eyes, noses and lips in the style of cubism flaunt - the so-called "wearable art", inspired by the sculpture, ceramics, graphics and paintings of the Spanish genius Pablo Picasso. “A characteristic color rhyme has appeared this season: a white archetypal polo shirt meets cubism,” says designer Victor Horsting. “We study the boundaries between a piece of clothing and a sculpture, considering the relationship between the owner of his wardrobe items and shifting the emphasis from his body to his clothes "

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